Thursday, September 19, 2024

Cliff Notes: Cordellia Ann’s Potato Rolls


Pals, welcome a particular installment of our Sunday posts.  Cliff Notes is a brand new sequence on Pleasure the Baker, authored by, my favourite baker and my favourite Cliff – MY DAD! Dad is the inspiration behind so lots of the classics right here on the weblog.  You understand him and love him for his Chocolate Chip Cookies, Buttermilk Pancakes and naturally the most effective Candy Potato Pie on the planet.  With Cliff Notes, Dad dives deep into the household historical past of those recipes and actually, they’re a delight.  I’ve to say, I’ve discovered a lot concerning the particulars of those household recipes as Dad has put these notes collectively.  I hope you get pleasure from this large heat welcome to our Wilson household kitchen.  

With the vacations in full swing, we’d like the right dinner roll to go together with our festive meal. That, pricey mates, is that this pillowy-soft and yeasty delectable that’ll mop up gravy, soften butter until it swims, and slide down the gullet very quickly flat.

After I was born, my sister Cordellia was sixteen years outdated and getting into her senior yr at Compton Excessive Faculty. I referred to as her “Dea” after I was studying to speak as a result of Cor-del-lia was too arduous for me to pronounce. The identify caught. Even my mother and father began calling her Dea. Our household lived on Juniper Avenue in Watts, a southside neighborhood of Los Angeles. Down the street a bit lived Sam Rodia, a junk collector and folk-art sculptor. For your complete time my dad lived in Watts (1920 to 1952), and from the time he married my mom in 1930, Sam Rodia was establishing a towering monument on his 107th Avenue property. It’s a sequence of interconnected towers (the tallest tower is 100 ft excessive) product of concrete, rebar and wire mesh, and festooned with tiles, glass, bottles, and different objects that he’d discover. Rodia, an Italian immigrant, referred to as it Nuestro Pueblo (Our Village). At present, his masterpiece is a historic landmark generally known as the Watts Towers. Two years earlier than Sam accomplished Nuestro Pueblo, Dea graduated from Compton Junior Faculty, and we moved right into a home nearer to UCLA the place she’d begin within the fall.  It was on Victoria Avenue, and was beforehand the residence of the Consul Basic of Panama. Whereas residing on Victoria, Mom attended night time college and gave the accountability of creating dinners to her two daughters—20-year-old Dea and 18-year-old Dede. For Thanksgiving and Christmas, Mom would present Dea methods to make her potato dinner rolls. Dea took copious notes attempting to maintain up, attempting to deliver order to Mom’s instinctive “add-a-little-this-and-a-little-that.” Therefore, they turned generally known as “Cordellia Ann’s Rolls” as a result of she created a 6-page manifesto of measurements and directions that she adopted reliably. Nevertheless, for the remainder of us, her detailed recipe was as intimidating as an auto restore handbook. Kudos to Pleasure for simplifying it and making it user-friendly.

Eunice Wallace, 1920’s.

So how on the earth did these pillows of heaven grow to be so coveted within the Wilson family? I may say as a sensible matter that Mom concocted the notion of utilizing mashed potatoes, an plentiful staple, to bulk out the flour due to a rise in wheat costs throughout wartime. However the flour/potato combo isn’t an unique concept; it has been a supply of breadmaking within the Netherlands and Eire for eons. The fact is, Mom was taught methods to make these rolls by her mother-in-law, Eunice Wallace—a wonderful prepare dinner in her personal proper. I by no means had the privilege of assembly my grandmother; she had handed away 10 years earlier than I used to be born. However Mrs. Wallace, because the household respectfully referred to as her, was a legend within the Wilson family. She had cooked for L. B. Taylor, proprietor of C. A. Taylor Trunk Works of Chicago, at his house on the town and his summer time residence in West Gouldsboro, Maine. Ultimately, after my dad graduated from Peoria Excessive Faculty in 1919, she started working for Katherine Thorne, widow of former Vice President of Montgomery Ward. Mrs. Thorne had simply married bond dealer and bon vivant Billy Camp, and the 2 hung out between their house in Chicago and their bungalow on the Beverly Hills Lodge. They introduced my dad and grandmother to California, and Mrs. Wallace cooked on the dinner events they hosted for his or her film mates. I’m certain these melt-in-your-mouth dinner rolls had been an integral a part of the meals. Generally I think about what it will’ve been like witnessing Mary Pickford passing a basket of rolls to Douglas Fairbanks; or Norma Talmadge and Mabel Normand daintily nibbling their gentle rolls whereas they chatted; or Buster Keaton and Fatty Arbuckle tossing rolls throughout the desk in a fierce juggling match.

Felicia Could (Dede) Wilson and Cordellia Ann (Dea) Wilson

Cordellia Ann’s scrumptious namesake has a legacy that spans greater than 100 years, handed down from chef to chef to chef. Now, because of Pleasure the Baker, it continues. This vacation season, fill your breadbasket with these scorching, comforting delights of sheer loveliness and see how briskly they disappear. Assured, Mrs. Wallace can be smiling on all of you.

This recipe requires Lively Dry Yeast. Dea and Mom used recent yeast, also referred to as “moist” yeast, for these superior rolls. However as we speak, moist yeast, which is available in 2-ounce muffins, is relatively troublesome to search out. The extra out there and longer lasting yeast is dry yeast. The baking outcomes are the identical. Should you occur upon the cake yeast and, simply out of curiosity, wish to attempt it, crumble one-third of a cake for this recipe into heat water and stir such as you would with the dry yeast. And keep in mind, don’t be intimidated. Pleasure will at all times be there to guarantee you that it’s not that difficult.

Get pleasure from!

xo Cliff

Discover the recipe for Cordellia Ann’s Potato Rolls right here! 

Learn Dad’s different Cliff Notes on his Candy Potato Pie and Buttermilk Biscuits.

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